Clothing utilization must increase if we are to achieve a new textiles economy, i.e., one that is founded on circular systems

Some facts

According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation textiles report

• Clothing production has doubled in the past 15 years driven by a growing middle class and people spending more on clothes.
• Clothing utilization has decreased 36% globally and 70% in China in the last 15 years.
• Consumers are beginning to admit that they own more clothes than they need.

To increase clothing utilization, we must transform the way clothes are designed, sold and used, so that they are not simply discarded after use.

High quality clothing and access to clothes via new business models would help people shift their thinking to clothes as durable products instead of disposable items.

The following 3 initiatives were presented in the report and there is already evidence of success.

Scale rental schemes and subscription models

Renting apparel rather than purchasing it makes good business sense for many wearing occasions or life stages such as proms, uniforms and babies. However, the number of different opportunities continue to expand.

Renttherunway focuses on designer dresses, gowns and accessories for women. Consumers set up an account and pick a plan. Rent four styles for a month or get new pieces continuously. Members shop less, save money and discover new designers.

Armoire offers digital curation by using data to match people with clothes they want. It also offers a monthly subscription that allows customers to rent designer clothes and exchange them at any time.

Plumdrop offers “gear” for specific outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing and scuba diving. Rent a box filled with what you need, with the option to purchase some of the products too. Return the products once your trip is over. (I love this one)

For this to scale, companies must offer optimized logistics such as free shipping, free cleaning and hassle-free shopping.

Make durability more attractive

Make durability more attractive so that people buy less and keep products for longer. Ideally, the product should be “timeless” and made from high quality fabrics with superior garment construction.

One company that has been very successful is American Giant. It has “reinvented American Classics” (sweatshirts and tees) with smart construction and custom developed material, all made in America.

Eileen Fisher offer effortless, timeless pieces that never go out of style. Mix and match classic garments and accessorize up or down, depending on the occasion.

Levi Strauss and Company with its 100% guarantee and Patagonia with its iron-clad guarantee both emphasize quality and durability.

Another valuable approach is to offer high quality customized clothing that will fit like a glove and have your own personalized attributes.

Increase clothing utilization through brand commitments and policies

Designing garments that last and developing policies that result in increasing clothing utilization are important strategies.

Worn Wear, a service offered by Patagonia mends products to prevent them from being discarded. The company sends its Worn Wear program to cities across the U.S., fixing clothes as it goes.

Brands can increase clothing utilization by designing for durability by using more durable fabrics, stronger garment construction and higher quality dyes that do not fade. Cuyana, a women’s brand tagline is “fewer better things” and suggests that women think carefully before making purchases.

Several policies that could be introduced include:

• Rewarding brands that design for durability and penalizing brands that continue to offer cheap disposable products.
• Introducing an extended responsibility producer (ERP) policy where brands are responsible for the product at the end of life.
• Stimulate resale and repair services by offering tax incentives

Previous articles in my circular series can be found here, here and here.

Do you need help with your circular strategy?

For help with sustainability, circularity and chemicals, contact Amanda Cattermole at (415) 412 8406 or Amanda@cattermoleconsulting.com. We can help you develop powerful solutions to protect your company and brand reputation.

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