The Greenpeace Detox My Fashion campaign has been a lightning rod for better chemical management in the apparel industry.
The Detox campaign highlighted 11 classes of hazardous chemicals used in textile processing, and targeted brands to eliminate them by 2020. The campaign also catalyzed the formation of a brand-led stakeholder group called ZDHC. Its mission is to enable brands and retailers in the textile, apparel, and footwear industries to implement sustainable chemical management best practice across the value chain.
Two key chemical management trends have materialized in the last few years. ZDHC developed one trend and leading brands looking for more information about the chemicals used to manufacture their products developed the other.
This is the first blog post of a series on chemical management in the textile, apparel and footwear industries.
Trend 1. Managing “input” chemistry via a manufacturing restricted substance list (MRSL)
ZDHC uses a systems approach to manage chemicals. One of the key strategies is to restrict certain chemicals at the beginning of the process (input). This means that hazardous chemicals are prevented from entering the supply chain. This reduces the need to test for their presence on products and in wastewater.
Managing input chemistry is achieved through the ZDHC manufacturing restricted substance list MRSL, which is a list of hazardous chemicals restricted from textile manufacturing. It includes ALL chemicals used at the facility, not just those that may be present on finished products.
Traditionally, the industry has relied on restricted substance lists (RSL’s) to ensure finished products do not contain restricted substances. The differences between the two types of lists are explained here.
ZDHC has successfully shifted the industry’s mindset from product testing to managing input chemistry as shown by their impact report.
Trend 2. Greater transparency to chemical formulations via chemical hazard assessments (CHA’s) and “Screened Chemistry”
Restricted lists determine what cannot be used in textile manufacturing or be present on finished products, but restricted lists do NOT state what can, and should be used instead.
To make informed chemical management decisions, brands need more information about the chemical formulations used on their products. In the apparel industry, this has been achieved by “Screened Chemistry”, a program first developed by LS&Co. in 2013. A later blog post will describe what Screened Chemistry is and how it is implemented into the supply chain.
At a high level, it works like this.
- Chemical companies disclose their textile formulation recipes, under an NDA, to a 3rd party service provider
- The service provider assesses each substance using a transparent, scientific, hazard-based method such as GreenScreen for Safer Chemicals or USEPA Safer Choice.
- Each chemical substance in the formulation is assigned a score based on its hazard profile
- A formulation score is assigned that considers the volume of each substance and its corresponding score
These scores, especially the formulation score help brands make informed chemical management decisions. Greater transparency into formulations, an evaluation of each chemical substance and an assigned formulation score allows brands to identify safer chemistry.
Safer chemistry results in safer products made in cleaner supply chains.
Do you need help with chemical management?
For help with sustainability, circularity and chemicals, contact Amanda Cattermole at (415) 412 8406 or Amanda@cattermoleconsulting.com. We can help you develop powerful solutions to protect your company and brand reputation.
Tips and Insights contains information to help you make informed sustainability decisions. Each post highlights a particular topic and includes questions you may want to consider for your business.