In 2013, some apparel brands wanted more information about the chemicals used to make their products. The Screened Chemistry Program made this a reality.

The Screened Chemistry Program is a brand developed program that assesses and scores chemicals and chemical formulations used in the apparel industry. It was developed by LS&Co. and ToxServices in 2013. At the same time, Nike developed a similar program with Scivera.

Both brands knew that consolidating their programs would reduce confusion and create alignment across the industry. They unified their individual programs and started to align on scoring rules for textile formulations. Quickly other brands joined them, and in 2018 the Screened Chemistry Program was gifted it to ZDHC.  Screened Chemistry is a working name and may change once it is incorporated into the ZDHC toolkit.

This is the 4th post in my chemical management series. Other posts can be found here, here and here.

What is the Screened Chemistry Program?

It is a science-based tool that assesses and scores both chemical substances and chemical formulations.

The program relies on chemical hazard assessments rather than risk assessments, although exposure is also considered.

The formulation score quickly and easily allows brands to choose safer formulations.

How does it work?

The first step is to form a relationship between a Service Provider, usually a board certified toxicologist, and a chemical company. An NDA between the two organizations protects intellectual property.

There are four elements to the program

1) DISCLOSE

The chemical company discloses all of the chemical substances in a formulation to the Service Provider, including impurities, residuals and by-products to 100 ppm.

2) ASSESS

The Service Provider uses the hazard-based method developed by them or their organization, (see next section) to assess each chemical.

Some chemicals can be scored without any further evaluation. These include known chemicals of concern, which are assigned a low score, as well as preferred chemicals, ie those on the SCIL list, which are assigned a higher score.

All other chemicals are subject to a chemical hazard assessment.

3) SCORE individual chemical substances

Each chemical substance is scored, based on the results of the hazard assessment. Lower scores indicate harmful chemicals, whereas higher scores reflect safer chemicals.

Consistent scoring rules were finalized by ToxServices and SciVera who, at the request of ZDHC, worked together to align their individual scoring methods. It should be noted that the latest scoring rules are not publicly available quite yet. Both ToxServices and SciVera do indeed publish their methods and scoring rules on their respective websites.

4) SCORE the FORMULATION

A formulation score is calculated by using individual chemical scores and their relative concentration in the formulation.

In most cases, brands only receive a formulation score. Everything else remains confidential so that intellectual property is protected.

Who are the Service Providers?

Currently, ToxServices and SciVera are the only Service Providers who are implementing the Screened Chemistry Program. (NSF was involved earlier this year, and may join the program at a later date) However, this number may increase as the program expands to other brands or across the supply chain.

Both these Service Providers conduct chemical hazard assessments, but their business models, chemical hazard assessment methods and approach differ. More importantly though, the scoring rules are consistent, which results in similar formulation scores.

• ToxServices uses its ToxFMD framework. This is a high touch approach that incorporates full GreenScreen and Safer Choice chemical hazard assessments. It is implemented by ToxServices board-certified toxicologists.
• Scivera uses its GHS+ CHA Framework, which is a transparent method implemented by Scivera board-certified toxicologists and delivered through SciveraLENS® to subscribers for efficiency and scalability of Screened Chemistry, as well as safer chemistry achievement in electronics, toys, cosmetics, and other consumer product categories.

What is next for Screened Chemistry?

ZDHC now manages the Screened Chemistry Program instead of LS&Co. and Nike. This is beneficial because they have the capability and expertise to scale the program across the supply chain or integrate it into other ZDHC programs.

To conclude, the Screened Chemistry Program is an important tool in the chemical management toolkit, just like the MRSL and reputable, textile specific eco-standards such as bluesign and OekoTex Eco Passport.

Do you need help with chemical management?

For help with sustainability, circularity and chemicals, contact Amanda Cattermole at (415) 412 8406 or Amanda@cattermoleconsulting.com. We can help you develop powerful solutions to protect your company and brand reputation.

Tips and Insights contains information to help you make informed sustainability decisions. Each post highlights a particular topic and includes questions you may want to consider for your business.