The circular economy serves as a guide for brands to implement new business models and sustainable material choices, such as recycled fibers.

I have written at length about the New Textiles Economy, a vision put forth by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation that uses the principles of the circular economy to fundamentally transform the way we make, use and dispose of clothes. The report, published in 2017, highlighted the enormous amount of resources, the hazardous chemicals used, and the waste created by the textile industry. I am particularly concerned about the copious amount of un-usable apparel that ends up in landfills. The vision captures the steps necessary to make this industry more sustainable, and there are trail blazing organizations that are doing just that.

How brands are supporting the New Textiles Economy

The circular economy is an economic system that aims to eliminate waste and promote the continual use of resources.

Brands are increasingly developing and implementing new business models that reduce waste and increase clothing utilization. This is defined as increasing the number of times an apparel product is worn prior to disposal.

It is not uncommon to see retailers such as Nike with its reuse a shoe program, and Levi Strauss with its Buy Better, Recycle More program take back clothing or shoes once the consumer doesn’t want them anymore. These clothes are gathered, shipped and sorted by companies such as Trove and I:Co prior to entering their second life.

Clothing repair, renting and repurposing are being employed by companies including Patagonia Worn Wear ,  Eileen Fisher with its Renew Program, and the The RealReal, an online company that resells luxury apparel.

Brands should be lauded because these examples prolong the inevitable trip to the landfill once garments are discarded. There is growing evidence that consumers are supporting such initiatives in addition to thrifting, a colloquial term for shopping at second-hand stores etc.

What about material choices such as recycled fibers?

Many brands have publicly committed to source “more sustainable” materials, with an emphasis on fibers. Although the term in not well defined, it includes organic cotton, Tencel® and recycled fibers.

Recycled polyester is made from plastic bottles, and recycled nylon is made from discarded fishing nets; both are recycled fibers that brands are using to support their commitments.

However, it could be argued that recycled fibers, unless they are made from textile waste, do not support the New Textiles Economy. Polyester made from recycled plastic bottles does not reduce the amount of apparel in the landfill. Instead, it diverts plastic bottles from landfills, which is of course better than throwing them away.

It may actually give “permission” to manufacture and use single-use plastics because there is a secondary market for them. Of course apparel brands use recycled polyester made from plastic bottles because, at a minimum, it diverts waste from the landfill. However, I would ask if this undermines the objective of a New Textiles Economy. Surely, the focus should be on textiles as a feedstock rather than plastic bottles.

What should brands and consumers do?

• Recycling must be the last-ditch effort in preventing apparel going to landfills. Brands should continue with new business models that increase clothing utilization.
• Consumers should change their buying habits and purchase fewer clothes or buy from one of the business models mentioned above.
• Brands and the apparel industry should support innovative recycling techniques that use textiles as the feedstock instead of plastic bottles.

Do you need help with your circular strategy?

For help with sustainability, circularity and chemicals, contact Amanda Cattermole at (415) 412 8406 or Amanda@cattermoleconsulting.com. We can help you develop powerful solutions to protect your company and brand reputation.

Tips and Insights contains information to help you make informed sustainability decisions. Each post highlights a particular topic and includes questions you may want to consider for your business.